That doesn't mean Lake Worth is without its own gems. The increasing gentrification of the city's downtown over the past decade has made the neighborhood around Lake and Lucerne Avenues a magnet for those seeking upscale dining, theater and nightlife 0 and one of the prime destinations is Paradiso restaurant.Paradiso has quietly occupied the same space at 625 Lucerne Avenue for 10 years, expanding over time to accommodate the growing crowds who have responded to chef-owner Angelo Romano's contemporary take on traditional Italian fare. What started as a single dining area for 75 or so now occupies two rooms with comfortably spaced seating for as many as 150, a small bakery-gelateria up front and an impressive wine cellar housing nearly 800 selections from Romano's collection of more than 2,000 bottles.

Guests' first impression may be of the gracious welcome offered by the restaurant's impeccably clad and supremely professional staff, or perhaps the trompe-l'oeil mural of "La Citta Ideale" - a wall-sized architectural rendering of a renaissance piazza by acclaimed artist Tomasz Rut. Regardless of what strikes diners first, though, the overall impression is of relaxed refinement and casual elegance.

The residents of Palm Beach Country have extraordinary taste, explains Romano, a native of Sorrento, Italy, who left home at 17 to pursue a career in the restaurant business. "They've dine in some of the most noteworthy restaurants in Europe, North America, everywhere, really, and our goal is to live up to their expectations for world-class dining. It may be ambitious, but we want to give them an experience like they would find in a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Consider some of the entrees Romano has created for the occasion, like the American Kobe beef skirt steak in a rosemary demi glace, accompanied by Florida lobster medallions, Swiss chard and a lemon emulsion (which, at $45 a serving, may be the single best dining value east of Las Vegas). Or the buffalo New York strip in a green peppercorn and Granny Smith apple sauce, sided by time, delicate fingerling potatoes and bok choy.

Seafood is well represented, too, with choices such as whole striped bass with lemon, fresh mint and garlic paired with purple potatoes and braised fennel, or the sautéed snapper filets with capers. Sicilian olives and escarole. Those in search of more traditional fare will find the Dover sole expertly grilled or sautéed to order and professionally prepared tableside.

The pasta selection has more than its share of intriguing offerings, as well, ranging from the extravagant (a risotto with lobster, langoustines, shaved white truffle, wild mushrooms and Italian caviar flambéed with XO cognac) to the comforting (house-made ravioli with ricotta and smoked Bufalo mozzarella in a tomato and basil sauce). Romano smartly offers all his pastas priced as primi or secondi - that is, in appetizer - or entree sized portions - to accommodate diners interested in nothing more formal than a salad and spaghetti as well as those seeking a more traditional, multi-course experience.

Of course, if a broad sampling is what you're after, the best choice may be the set menu. Available for the entire table only, diners can choose from a four - or seven - course meal ($48 and $60, respectively), with expertly chosen wine pairings for each dish ($90 and $120, respectively).

The set menu offers an excellent survey of the kitchen's full capabilities. Courses include an intensely rich butternut squash soup, malfade pasta with New Zealand cockles, mussels and lobster, beet tortelloni filled with veal, porcini mushrooms and artichokes in a veal stock and broiled tenderloin of lamb with brussel sprouts and a creamy white polenta. The wines Romano matches with each dish are well-considered complements to what's on the plate, and the care that he's put into refining the pairings demonstrate the depth of passion he has for wine collecting, storage and service.

His appreciation for the relationship between wine and food extends to the dessert menu as well. Guest can choose to sample some truly exceptional bottlings, including Chateau d'Yquem - the most celebrated sweet wine in the world - by the glass. Digestifs are available from the full bar, and coffee, cappuccino and espresso are all well-prepared in true Italian style. Any of these make excellent accompaniments to Paradiso's homemade assortment of pastries, cookies, cakes and gelatos - but for real indulgence, order the chocolate or Grand Marnier soufflé ahead of time and prepare to be amply rewarded for the foresight.

Dinner is served seven days a week from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. and lunch is available Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dress is smart casual and reservations are appreciated.