Virginia Woolf wrote, "One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well." The celebrated 20th-century English novelist would have been extremely happy at Paradiso, a landmark, upscale Italian restaurant that has delighted discriminating diners in Lake Worth for the past five years. The food is direct and uncomplicated, the ambiance charming, and the service first class.
The meal began with two delightful appetizers. The insalata capricciosa con scaglie di Parmigiano ($14) was a refreshing medley of sliced fennel, radishes, carrots and arugula, sprinkled with lemon vinaigrette and topped with a generous portion of Parmesan shavings. A light pomodoro sauce cloaked the ravioli del giorno ($14), pillows of pasta stuffed with smoked mozzarella di bufala.
Our entrées provided more glorious eating. The scaloppini di Vitello piccata ($21) - prime-grade veal scallops - were sautéed lightly and invested with a pure lemon-butter sauce created with such artistry that it was a masterpiece on its own. Nonetheless, the pompano con crusto di patate ($34) was the sensation of the evening. The fish filet, coated with potato slices layered to resemble fish scales, was baked and flavored with garlic, thyme and dill. The zephyr-light sauce - another gem - was made with mustard and champagne.
Paradiso's desserts break through the tiramisù, ricotta cheesecake and crème brûlée frontier. The vanilla-flavored panna cotta - a creamy treat rarely seen on menus - was garnished with fresh berries.
It should come as no surprise that paradiso is Italian for paradise. After my visit to this restaurant, it's easy to understand why the name is appropriate.
Paradiso Ristorante, 625 Lucerne Ave., Lake Worth. (561-547-2500)
